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Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Guages that work

Instead of messsing with the old ones, I messed with new ones.

Gosh its dark. I have a lighted rear view mirror coming to remedy this.

You can't see it too well but the fuel guage is a pod unit next to the release
handle of the parking brake

The guages are sunpro, but came with a ammeter instead of voltmeter.
The ammeter needs ALL of the power between the battery and altenator
running under your dash hooked through it to work (almost enough power to weld with)
The replacement voltmeter on the left jumps 12V power off the starter switch above it.
The temp guage signal comes from the unit between cylinder 1 & 3,
The oil pressure comes from the tan wire off the oil pressure unit on the back of the engine.
When started, the guage reads 70 lbs cold. :)
Check out the cool 1980's knight rider guages
Michael, you are coming up on a turn too fast, autodrive on.
Just getting warmed up

After 15 minutes idling :)

"short" todo list:
brakes and lines, axles- either regear or replace and regear,
seats and belts & test drive

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Rear lights

The following colored wires run to the rear lights-

White: gas sender gauge
Green: reverse ( power comes off of NSS on lower steering column, goes to both rear )
Blue: left turn and brake
Orange: right turn and brake
Yellow: running lights (goes to both rear lights, side marker lights, and liscense plate light)

The cluster of wires from near the parking brake, back to the left light housing was in great shape so new soldered connections to the light were installed since the originals were toast.
Jeeps original wiring harness to the right turn signal and liscense was probably good for the first 25,000 miles or 3 years
then it started decaying and shorting since it ran thru the tailgate hinges and the gate itself. (BTW the tailgate hinges are a pain to remove) 

The driver blue wire was working, but the contact snapped off, I'm just going to replace
the socket with an aftermarket one
so it works like the passenger side (below)

The rear housings are cast pot metal and need a goooood electrical ground to work. I guess jeep thought that
the 3 mounting bolts were adequate. Remember the more grounds the better? If not go back to the dash lights page and re read.
There is a ground wire under the lights that was replaced and ran to the new liscence plate
light and for the side marker lights and will also be ran to the housing studs.