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Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Oil simplicity

This shiny little piece goes in place of the stock
oil cooler that goes up to the radiator via hoses.
This is almost life size.
It bolts onto the block and the new filter screws onto it.

The hoses leak on the cooler after many years, and I don't need the extra junk in the
engine bay. $16 new off fleabay.

Where the orange filter is (PH5 Fram)
is where the old cooler adapter (below puking oil) was bolted up along with the oil filter.
You just remove the cooler, and bolt in the new adapter. 
The only other thing it needed was a pair of 5/16" -18 bolts
Note: The original oil cooler used a smaller filter than just a stock one.

No leaks, no drips....
next thing to do: finish rear lights, fix e -brake, &
see if it can move onto the driveway by itself.

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Rear driveshaft update V2.3

I was going to sleeve the stock tube with smaller DOM, but I
 stopped by metal supermarket and got 3' of  stock diameter DOM tubing for $21. 
Since I have plans on hitting the trail before the street, I'm planning
on lengthening the rear driveshaft with 2" O.D. .125" wall  tubing.
I may have it redone later and balanced.

Here's another how to:
Stock on the left, new .125 wall stuff is on the right
It's amazing how flimsy looking the stock driveshaft is compared to this stuff.

The driveshaft will have to be lengthened  roughly 4" to reach 32 1/2"
center of yolk to center of yolk.
Hows that for a techincal drawing?
This is with the slip shaft centered with 1.5" compression and 1.5" extension travel since
the rear springs are almost flat.

Like the front I cut a circumference around the weld
make sure you mark your yolks so they are on the same side because
they need to be in synch (same side, same plane) when it is complete.

1 hit with a bfh and it came right off. 
When cutting, make the cuts as straight as possible.  That way
when you slide the yolk into the new tube its already close
to being straight.

The slip shaft side.  Because the tube wall is thicker than stock I had to reduce
the diameter of the yolk sleeve where it inserts into the tube.
Note how a bfh dented the stock tubing with mild blows.
On the trail with an unforgiving boulder this would have twisted it.

Did you mark your yolks? I put the driveshaft on some steel to make sure the
yolk ears were flat.  Initially they were several degrees off.

I measured from the squarely cut  tubing (used a chop saw for that)
to the end of the machining on the short yolk for a measurement every 90*
After it was where I wanted it,  I tack welded every 90* and re-measured.
The slip shaft was measured to the dust collar (1 5/16" collapsed if I remember right)
every 90*. 

For welding, the ground went onto a large piece of right angle and the driveshaft lay cradled in that.
Then as the weld was layed down with the BIG welder the shaft was rotated.  One side was done in 2 turns
the other in 3 cause the ground stuck.  It'll work for now.

Friday, November 11, 2011


Brakes are my nemisis.  I am going to have to do something drastic to the rear brake line (like replacing it) to match it to the brake hose and line on the rear axle. 
  Also the master cylinder (i think) is a 15/16" or 1" bore (cj jeep size) and the wheel cylinders up front are 1 1/8"
What this means is that the master cylinder has to move a * whole lot * (more than physically possible)  to expand the wheel cylinders a little.

It's like sticking $1.00 in a vending machine for a $1.12 item ... you're not going to get much out of it.

Plans are to replace the master cylinder and front wheel cylinders with 1 1/8" bore parts from bigger vehicles.
 (popluar master cylinder doners are the 79 scout II or 79 cherokee)

*Update 12-16-11,  ordered a booster and master cylinder off a 84 waggy that should be in soon, and some new front wheel cylinders.  all 1 1/8" bore.  I realize that there isn't a residual valve on the mc for the fronts since the waggy had disks, but I'll do a test run to see if it is too much or too little braking - somewhere between not stopping and locking up would be good.

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Dash lights and more wiring

Everything works better when its grounded.  Really.
 If crap on your vehicle doesn't work look for a bad ground. 
Example: The jeep wouldn't start the other day, and after digging through my problem checklist
I saw a spark from the ground wire on the engine block. A little wd40 and tightening the wire in a little
different position and presto!

I used the remaining guage lights to get the dash lit.  The ALT (alternator) light will be used
as a key "on" indicator. 
I think the gas, oil, and temp guages will be moved to a underdash pod.
They are originally ran off of a resistor on the back of the dash so- maybe something more reliable.

An auxillary power wire was ran coming from the fusebox to a 20A thermal
fuse that feeds the cigarette lighter (a power port to the younger generation)
and now the brake lights.

The horns have been installed, but the chevy horn relay in the fusebox is shot so they are silent for now.

The hi and lo beams, running lights, and hazards are working. (on the front side at least)
  Working on the turn signals now.

After the turn signals are worked out,  on to the rear lights.  The wiring in the body to the rear lights is intact luckily.
The wiring through the tailgate is shot - why they ran wires through a moving metal tube in the tailgate is beyond me.
Seems like its a recipie for disaster.