Having acess to a punch and plasma cutter help a lot. On right side of the picture is the frame coil bucket, on left side is suspension link / coil spring pad.
The savings are going for mucho sized bolts/ nylocks. The big holes are 1" dia (12.49 per bolt and 8.23 per nylock) and the small holes are 9/16" all grade 8. sorry- mistyped original bolt price.
About $100 for grade 8 nuts, bolts, and washers.
9-17 ...and voila- the right side parts assembled and welded on the frame! The brake line (hole to the right of the bracket) had a mounting bracket that had to be chopped off and ground flat to mount this.
I'm hoping tomorrow to get the rear brakes bled - finally- and take the jeep around the block to see how the new rear gears feel. THEN I can park it backwards in the garage and start taking off the front axle and start installing all this stuff.
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Heres the basics for a four link design (still have to cut some parts for
the brackets, then I can start lopping off leaf springs)
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2007/4_link_tech.htm
I've read this 6 times and find something new on each reading.
I used the 4 link calculator (with update )at the bottom of the page
After punching in some factual and some close guesstimate measurements the suspension
anti squat is at 95% (read it- you'll understand). If its possible to build the suspension like that- it'll work.
Here's what antisquat all comes down to: (big thanks for whoever made this)
The theoretical apex of the suspension links (the point under the block on above picture) determine whether your vehicle will squat or lift up when taking off depending on what side of the vehicles center of gravity its on. Also how high it is. ( according to the article between 50 to 80% of the CG.)
This helps determines traction too.
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With a little more accurate measurements the program came up with a 96% anti squat, but the apex is 90% of the CG and about at the rear tires.
The lower link is in front of the xfer case and the upper is in front of the body support on the side of the frame. may have to do some tweaking to adjust this...
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9-16-12
Clean da frame to prep for welding
About at the front floorboards the frame rail goes from 2" wide to about 3".
crash protection??
inside of the passenger frame rail. only half had to be cleaned because
the inside of the bracket comes up about an inch. (2.54 cm)
The outside plate and underframe plate were already welded together in a "t" formation.
I bolted the big heim in place to align the holes of the inner (left with clamp on it)
and outer holes. This is the drivers side- note that 1/2" by 1" had to come off
the top of the inside plate to miss the transmission shifter linkage mount.
Heim is 1.25" x 1" with 3/4" misalignment spacers.
Also had to loosen the exhaust and remove xfer skid plate for clearance.
The mini lincoln welder holds stuff in place until the old clarke welder hits it tomorrow.
There comes a time that the reality of how major an undertaking it is to do this- mine was welding the second bracket at arms length over the exhaust, around the transmission linkage, with my head in front of the engine oil pan just so I could see to weld. Hope its worth it.