steering v2

hopefully the light isn't a train...

Chevy box on left, scout 2 box on right.

The chevy box (a saginaw model 83, the model 84 is the 3/4 and 1 ton version) mounts

almost the same as the jeeps, the scout mounts outside of the frame

(pitman aims towards the front-stock)

What do they have in common? see pic#3

 Here's the jeep pitman arm hole

Here's the scout AND chevy pitman arm hole

Chevy -left- having compensation issues vs the scout

The scout and chevy seem to have similar sized tie rod ends.

 With this much droop, why am I doing coils again??

oh yeah- turning radius and stability

 

Its time to check all the parts while I'm doing this.

Rear spring bolt upper, shackle side lower

Both are grooved into by the shackles and hangers

 

 

9-5-12

It's A: amazing and B: scary that four little bolts keep the steering box on.

Saginaw, meet saginaw.  Only about 21 years difference between the two.

Upper is manual jeep, on the bottom is power chebby w scout arm on it.

The chevy unit is 12" from input shaft to end of box.

I have to admit that I'm starting to like pre-govt bailout chebby stuff.

no wonder its so popular. The jeep splined input is almost the same size as the

chebby, but has smaller spines coming off the steering cup so no worky.

We'll have to use the chevy input shaft w/ rag joint. The previous scout box had a much bigger fine splined input.

This is the collapsable chevy steering shaft.  The left has a rag joint on it that goes

to the steering box.  The important thing is the upper piece of metal that slides in the shaft.

The part that collapses happens to be the same as the jeeps (upper)  so the end of the jeeps shaft must come off.  Either its cheap to build this way, or they got it right a long time ago.
Theres a spring that locks the rubber boot into the steering cup (right terminology?)
After that comes out the boot can be pulled back revealing this:

The part that fits into the cup. 

The posts coming off the jeeps shaft have a square block each on them with a retaining clip.

This fits into the cup and gives smooooth steering and durability.

(its almost 40 years old- proof enough)

After getting the axle under the jeep and figuring where /how the ps box will go ( fits original space pretty good btw) this will have to be hacked off and fit into the chevy shaft.

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9-26

For clearance puposes and support, the tab on the chevy

box went into the jeeps crossmember.

Remember how it had an option of a power saginaw box?  The backside of the

crossmember was already notched for the models that came with power steering.

The box in place via jack

I cut maybe 5" off the jeeps steering shaft, and smoothed out the cut with

a flap grinding wheel.

This is , without a doubt, the easiest part of the whole conversion, nay the whole project. 

 Where the rubber boot starts is where the jeeps double d shaft is ending.

It slipped into the chevy piece about 5". 

There is still enough room for compression should the shaft need to though.

 

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The final product 10-14-12

 

These are the original chebby steering hoses.  The metal part was unbent to fit around the radiator since it was so tight.  The return line was extended about 6" with some hose and works fine

since it is low pressure.