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Thursday, September 20, 2012

axle link brackets & links v2

Ever notice that work on this thing comes in waves?
Everything just barely fits without removing all of the scouts leaf spring perches.
The scout stuff doesn't hang down low enough to be a problem, so why chop it?
IF, and I mean IF a reason to change axle happens by- these can still be sold to a scout owner
and all they need to do is chop the brackets off.

After that, a few skid plates were in order to protect the links
and strengthen it.
FYI- I weighed the lower brackets and coil springs before installation- 23 lbs each side.
So this will altogether weigh more than a leaf spring setup.
(lower links are going to be 14 lbs ea. by themselves)

A better picture...

Passenger side finished- it is *really* tight because of the caliper at full steer.
The only jack point on this side is the original scout 
spring perch because it is so tight and the angle of the bracket skid plate.

The drivers side has a little more wiggle room without the pumpkin to
work around.
Note the fancy alignment device- a screw on one side and
a nut on the other.
Here's the mock up of the lower link.  Its about 32" long
and has about a 15* bend in it.  I taped a straight piece
to it to keep it inline while measuring.  Simple- right?

Now- how to break a $300 bending die. ( just the die, not the bender price)
Set up- pre carnage with 0.25" dom 4130
The 0.25" wall tubing was supposed to be brought around by the
curved part of the die ( above the degree wheel)
The tubing is so strong that the clamping area broke off as the die turned
and ripped the clamping area out of its weld.
Listen to the sound and watch the vice grip pliers at 14 seconds.
Didn't even bend the tube 1*.
poof, got the tubes bent- I had to chop saw through the tube wall barely
in 2 places to make it weak enough for the bender to have a chance and weld a
gusset plate onto the die.
These slots in the tubing were welded back shut afterwards.
I give you- 17 lbs of oomph.

 Link installed to rear

Link installed to axle
Big change coming up on 4 link design-
The radius arm setup will be tight- really tight but plausable.
The outer frame 4 link is a no go because the tire will rub the upper control arm.
So a triangulated upper link is going in place from the inside of the frame above
where the spring hanger was, to the center of the front axle.
Due to the geometry of this, I will not need a track bar now! :)
The original upper tab links are going to be where the shock will mount now.
I typed this into the ranger stations 4 link calculator and everything came out great
 Gotta order another big heim joint, and may just truss the front at the same time!
I'll give you a hint- its not ice cleats.
Upper 4 link mount
Various parts

looking from driveshaft side...
The extra plates will weld from the bracket straight to the
axle tube.  There's also a top support plate to tie it all together.

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