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Saturday, January 28, 2012

power brakes v1.5 , 1.6, & 1.7


I finally got started on the brake booster mounting holes.
Jeep has an aluminum spacer from the booster, the two stock holes are fine- but
it's not as easy as drilling 2 more holes, the bottom 7:00 hole is fine,
the 1:00 hole ran smack into the back of the brake pedal support beam that runs from
the steering column/ dash support to the firewall. 
                         The support and pedal and wiper/washer motor had to come out so roughly 1" could be chopped
                        from the cross beam. (red area lower pic)
The waggy booster is huge compared to even a double diaphragm cj model.
(same part # as a lot of chevy full size vehicles)
I think its 10" dia and it puts the master cylinder outlets @ 13" and 16" from the firewall.
Chevy v8s have a hard vac line around the back side of the drivers valve cover that had to be bent down to clear the
booster, but there is still enough stock hose line to reach the vaccuum nipple.





A couple of good links about the basics.....



V 1.6                      The gigantic 1 1/8" master cylinder (84 waggy, a.k.a. chebby)
with the rear proportioning valve attatched. 
I'm putting on the valve because a: its necessary, and b: its cool looking
ok- more a than b. But it also reduces the line size to
the 3/16" line I have heading to the back brakes.

I went through a foot of brake line learning how to double flare
the line- I kinda got it down now. The tools will do this breakquip
easy bend tubing below with professional results, the stock
steel line above took several test runs.


Make sure your couplings are a: on before you start, and b: facing the right way.
The adapter to the Baer proportioning valve adapter:

The original rear brake line went up and over the axle crossmember , this was removed from the new one
so it wouldn't be a air bubble trap.  the rear axle lines were switched around to the
drivers side.

V1.7 The brakes are done! When the jeep got back from the
muffler shop I messed around with getting the rear brake line bent and installed.
While that was going on, the driver and rear seat got bolted in, and
with some major help, the power booster and master got installed.



On day 2 the brakes got bled and the vaccum inlet on the booster had to
be changed to match the chevy vaccuum line.
The brakes will hold against 1st gear in 4 low.

****Drove around the block , the rear brakes are touchy, the fronts are blah.
I took off the front drums, and adjusted the shoe adjusters out 20 turns.
It works a lot better.******








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