new axles (kinda) v1.4 3-28-12

Scout II axles.  I guess the scout rusted off the top of them.  R.I.P. to a great four wheel drive.

Dana 44s 30 spline w lock out hubs. 58" wide which will take care of
the tires hitting the springs near full lock.
58"-53"=5" / 2 = 2.5" wider each side than the jeeps stock narrow axles.
I'm sure there won't be ANY other problems putting these on. Riiiight.

Lighter than full size ford dana 44 for sure...

What a difference 5" makes..

The cover came off and some light gray "ooze" came out with some very clear water.

I guess the axle was left upside down so the vent sucked up water.

Got the passenger side hub  pulled- The bearing grease was brand new- bright red.

There was also 50' of fishing line wrapped around the inner axleshaft along with

several pounds of dirt. Brand new brake pads too.

Also got the drivers side pulled- new grease there too. I guess it was being rebuilt then abandoned.

The white lines are center to center of the jeep springs, the yellow are the original scout pads.

The scout has a pad cast into the bottom of differential, 

 The new differential pad is centered over the right inner axle u bolt. this needs to be ground off the top

and positioned to match the other new pad, OR move the jeeps springs out a bit.

good link to whats happening:

 http://www.jeeptech.com/convaxle/ihscout/d44f.html

Orange box =stock scout gearing, Red box =stock jeep gearing, Green box= now in the black @ 2766
w  4.56 gears in 3rd. Overdrive rpms should be @2000.
With the new sized tires the new gearing should be close to the stock 3.73 & stock tires thus, easy highway cruising w an overdrive and better wheeling with the dana 300.

{Scout 2s had a v8, 3 speed auto, 3.55 gears, and dana 20 w 2:1 low range and did just fine. although 10 mpg uphill, downhill, or towing, or being towed}

It came with a scout power steering box but I don't know the condition of that either.
They're post '74 due to disk brakes and rear drums.
 

I need to tear into them completely, they're pretty ugly right now. The parking brake cable was cut, so the
jeeps will have to be transplanted onto it.  I may see if the jeep brakes fit on the rear.
I don't know the rear drum size, but they seem smaller than the jeeps 11" drums but they look a little wider.

$update$: acquired new rotors and got them pressed on the hub for $52 per side,
 ball joints- chinese $15 ea or moog for $47 ea,
 calipers $19 ea reman., precision u joints $14 ea,
axle pads$13 w shipping, and going to rotate knuckles on axle 6*- time and labor.

Finished with the outers of the axle finally.

New rule #1- unless I'm out in the boonies and desperate, ball joints will be done at an auto shop.

I will gladly take all components to them, a stack of cash, and smile when they hand me

the bill just so I do not have to do this again.

I rented a ball joint press from the parts store.  Guess what- they don't fit 4wd axles!!

 (not the top one at least) I guess they're made for teeny tiny car parts only.

I had to cut down a old driveshaft tube to make a tube tall enough to fit over the top joint and "coerce" it into

position, and had to make a spacer to push the bottom one all the way through.

"Super strength" Precision (MOOG) swivel joints installed FINALLY
These are not greaseable because the cross is solid.  I replaced
the vaseline that was in the joints with some better grease prior to installation.
BTW: Take in the old u joint to the parts store so they can't sell you the
wrong part...twice..

-----------------------------------------------------
I started chopping on the scout axles finally- after megarun, I realized how extremely narrow (and tippy) the jeep was. 
When new, the scout was 3300 lbs, I guess they used 1 3/4" wide springs, but more of them to distribute the weight.
The commando was 2800 lbs and only uses 3 rear leaf springs in the pack, although wider.

rusty, scout- wider perch jeep

Crusty , pitted wheel bearings

Jeep has (6) 3/8" bolts holding the backing plate on,

the scout has (4) 1/2" bolts. I think that fords had 5

Backing plate with all cruddy hardware still on it.

todo:
gears, bearings, brake lines, steering, rod ends, redo driveshafts.

Hood and battery

After learning my lesson with the last project, I bought this battery new, closer to time of having a running vehicle rather than let it set for a year + while working on non electrical related stuff.
The 2007 wally world battery started hissing when charging so I got a bigger, 650CCA battery that filled up the battery tray.
The hood hinge was jacked up and wallered out so i couldn't get a good measurement
 of how much clearance was needed.  Someone had put in a rusty bolt where there was supposed to be a rivet
I ended removing that, and welding a bolt and nut in place - amazing, slop is almost gone. the dspo could have done
this little mod years ago...

OK- so the hood closes pretty good, but I found that with the wider battery under the hood, **typical jeep thing** the hood would close and now try to crush the battery (orange hashed area)  Instead of weakening the hood by chopping out the orange area, I shaved the ears off the battery tray and moved them up (thus moving the battery down) about 1 3/8"

power brakes v1.5 , 1.6, & 1.7

I finally got started on the brake booster mounting holes.
Jeep has an aluminum spacer from the booster, the two stock holes are fine- but

it's not as easy as drilling 2 more holes, the bottom 7:00 hole is fine,

the 1:00 hole ran smack into the back of the brake pedal support beam that runs from

the steering column/ dash support to the firewall. 

                         The support and pedal and wiper/washer motor had to come out so roughly 1" could be chopped

                        from the cross beam. (red area lower pic)

The waggy booster is huge compared to even a double diaphragm cj model.

(same part # as a lot of chevy full size vehicles)

I think its 10" dia and it puts the master cylinder outlets @ 13" and 16" from the firewall.

Chevy v8s have a hard vac line around the back side of the drivers valve cover that had to be bent down to clear the

booster, but there is still enough stock hose line to reach the vaccuum nipple.

A couple of good links about the basics.....

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0501cl_brake_line_basics/index.html

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23063

V 1.6                      The gigantic 1 1/8" master cylinder (84 waggy, a.k.a. chebby)

with the rear proportioning valve attatched. 

I'm putting on the valve because a: its necessary, and b: its cool looking

ok- more a than b. But it also reduces the line size to

the 3/16" line I have heading to the back brakes.

I went through a foot of brake line learning how to double flare

the line- I kinda got it down now. The tools will do this breakquip

easy bend tubing below with professional results, the stock

steel line above took several test runs.

Make sure your couplings are a: on before you start, and b: facing the right way.

The adapter to the Baer proportioning valve adapter:

The original rear brake line went up and over the axle crossmember , this was removed from the new one

so it wouldn't be a air bubble trap.  the rear axle lines were switched around to the

drivers side.

V1.7 The brakes are done! When the jeep got back from the

muffler shop I messed around with getting the rear brake line bent and installed.

While that was going on, the driver and rear seat got bolted in, and

with some major help, the power booster and master got installed.

On day 2 the brakes got bled and the vaccum inlet on the booster had to

be changed to match the chevy vaccuum line.

The brakes will hold against 1st gear in 4 low.

****Drove around the block , the rear brakes are touchy, the fronts are blah.

I took off the front drums, and adjusted the shoe adjusters out 20 turns.

It works a lot better.******

glovebox / computer dock

Heres the basic layout of the sheetmetal to replace the destroyed cardboard

glovebox.  It's as thick as the dash steel.
Its a galvenized piece that has been laying around in the garage for a couple years
so ...basically I'm recycling. 

bent and test fitted

the computer will be under the box and behind the blue area.

The original template mock-up

*safety warning - if you weld galvenized metal do it in a well vented area

It puts unpleasant gasses that will make you go stupid and kill you.*

I had some shipping foam for sound deadening that was

glued on.  The red dots are where the pre drilled screw

and bolt holes are.

Long lines are the slots for the glovebox lid adjustment.

The brains of the car.  It sure as hell isn't me.

I could have put the computer in the glovebox like everyone else, but Jeeps

aren't known as spacious vehicles and space is desperately needed. 

mounting strap bent up . 

I had to put the glovebox in and out at least 5 times to check and recheck

so the computer didn't hit anything

to insulate it from the rigors of vibrations, theres a small layer

of foam smushed inbetween it. 

Finished and installed. It misses the heater and blower by an inch at most.

The brains wires come out and go down the passenger side kick panel.

The hvac air intake drain tube was put back in under the computer.

on to the next issue....

bling

Looky what I found.. factory AMC v8 emblems

bumpers

 The originals are strangely cool, but really weak. they're arched metal bent into a curve like a bow. I think if the back of it gets plated and welded, it will be more than strong enough.

I smacked the heck out of it with 3 lb hammers and got it straightened out, then ground the paint off.  The ends stick out further than the piddly built in wheel well flares, I'm considering trimming at the white lines and adding

a mounting plate at the middle arrow.

you can see how arched this is.  LOTS of room for a small winch though...

The front one is still in pretty good shape, the back one- not so much.

It had a 1969 draw tite that bolted to it and then to the rear crossmember

that got hit and screwed the bumper up.

 With this much overhang, a similar sized rectangular tube bumper w/ a

 2" receiver would work much better

all it needs is...

After the wiring I was feeling a little saucy over having working everything
I decided to fire her up and make sure she still runs.

If I had brakes, I'd take it for a spin. The stock master cylinder came off in preparation for the new booster.

Long todo list: brakes, fix horn- it honks when the wheel turns, body and underbody armor, seat belts and mount seats, bumper and winch mount, exhaust w/ muffler, (I guess I'm just old) I don't know if the exhaust will go out back or to the driver side, new shock mounts for bigger shocks